Is Your Bike Race Ready?

Here are a few general service guidelines for getting your bike ready to get off the trainer and on to the road this spring. As you go through this list, if you notice problems or have questions about anything on your bicycle, bring in an expert! (Especially for the periodic and annual maintenance tips listed below.) Myles and his team at MC Cycle in Laconia are happy to advise you on what maintenance is required – and when. If your bike is heavily used, abused or has been crashed, bring it in for a thorough check and service to ensure that it's running properly for your ’07 racing season.

Every Ride

• Check tire pressure and add air if needed.
• Check the tire tread for wear and embedded debris that could cause a flat.
• Check that the wheel quick releases are tight and that the wheels are secure.
• Squeeze brakes to make sure they're grabbing the wheel rim, and check to see that the brake pads are in good condition; they strike the rims (not the tires).
• Check chain & add lube if it looks dry.
• Make sure you've got your spare tube, tools, pump, etc., with you.

Monthly check:

• Clean the bike with a rag (or soap and water if it's real dirty) and inspect the frame and components for signs of wear such as cracks. Some folks clean after every race –up to you! Use a non-abrasive, gentle and preferably environmentally friendly cleaner.
• wipe the chain and cassette cogs clean with a rag and earth-friendly degreaser; re-lube.
• Check the wheels for loose spokes.
• Spin wheels, looking for wobbling which indicate you should have your wheel trued (by an expert).
• Test, with a wrench, the tightness of the: crank arms, pedals, chain ring bolts, seat bolt, seat post bolt, stem bolts, handlebar bolts and all accessory mounting bolts/screws.
• Lube the brake, derailleur, and clipless-pedal pivot points. (NOT the brake pads!)
• Lube the cables to prevent binding and check the cables for fraying and rusting; replace if necessary.
• Check clipless pedals and cleats for loose screws/bolts.

Periodically (every 3 to 4 months)

• Clean and wax your frame to protect the paint/finish; once it's clean, inspect the frame and fork for any cracks or damage
• Check and replace tires if needed; also check your spare tube and patch kit to make sure the spare holds air and the kit has glue & patches
• Check the hubs, bottom bracket, headset: adjust and/or overhaul as needed
• Check all cables and housings for fraying, breaks, rust and corrosion and replace if necessary.
• Check for worn brake pads and replace if needed; also replace worn handlebar tape or grips;
• Check for chain, cassette cog and chain ring wear and replace worn parts as required
• Clean the drive train (chain, chain rings, cassette, front and rear derailleur) with biodegradable solvent and rags.

Annually (or every 6,000 miles)

• Check all bearing systems: hubs, bottom bracket, headset and pedals: adjust and/or overhaul as needed
• Check all cables and housings for fraying, breaks, rust and corrosion and replace, if necessary
• Replace brake pads, rubber brake hoods and handlebar tape, if necessary
• Clean and check wheels carefully for signs of wear such as worn sidewalls (braking surface) or cracks at the spoke nipples
• Check the hubs, bottom bracket, headset: adjust and/or overhaul as needed
• Overhaul the pedals to check the bearings and add fresh grease; if you're using toe straps, check them for wear and replace if needed

Looking for somewhere to run during the winter?

Why not hit the trails? Just because the ice and snow are on the ground doesn't mean you can't run outside. You just need the proper footwear.

All you need are some cheap 1/2" sheet metal screws and pair of running shoes that you don't mind screwing them into. Using a drill with a bit driver, you can quickly add 15-20 per shoe in about 5 minutes. Use 3/8" screws towards the front where the shoe's sole is thinner as stepping on a rock and getting a screw jabbing you in the bottom of your foot isn't any fun. Pull the insole out when your done and feel for any screws that make it all the way through. Either remove them or replace them with shorter screws.

Be careful wearing your new ice shoes on tile floors, concrete, or pavement as they can be slipperly with only the metal contacting the ground.